Saturday 25 July 2009

Gramercy Tavern, 42 E. 20th Street, New York

With it's Pottery Barn-style decor, lively but unobtrusive atmosphere and immensely knowledgable front of house staff, Gramercy Tavern has to be one of Danny Meyer's archetypal eateries.

Judging from other people's opinions and experiences this restaurant doesn't seem to dissapoint on a regular basis. New York is blessed with a huge number of great restaurants and restaurateurs but this is the place where everyone talks about.


The chef, Michael Anthony seems to be conducting his very own show on the big-city stage with the right reasons in mind. The combination of simple produce cooked in straight forward, yet effective means results in a lavish and throughly enjoyable feast. Anthony is an expert in the delicate arts of poaching and braising. These two methods of cooking are well recognised current trends but what differentiates chefs that use these methods beyond practice is what produce they use.



The menu, filled with subtle, slightly rustic creations is unlike no other I've encountered. The one thing that's obvious is that Danny Meyer has instilled the importantance of staying with the American approach to cooking, the appointment of Anthony portrays that. There was nothing fancy about the food but it was presented in brilliant fashion. What you read from the menu is what you got but every dish felt like it had been thought about fanatically in terms of the balance of flavours, what aromas complemented others and what textures could be used to mostconfuse your senses (within reason of course).

The entire experience was pleasurable as the staff seemed to provide the service so effortlessly. You can see why New Yorkers continue to dine at this restaurant. Even though it holds a worldwide reputation, it somehow manages to keep it's local feel. If you visit the Big Apple, visit Gramercy Tavern.

Bread - numerous styles, served and explained brilliantly, enough said
Staff - brilliant
Overall - be sure to book in advance (Opentable is your best bet), is up there with The Statue of Liberty, Empire State Building and Brooklyn Bridge.
(212) 477-0777

Monday 20 July 2009

Assaggi, 39 Chepstow Place, London

No restaurant frontage, no signs, no website and no brand identity. If the owners of Assaggi wanted to hide this establishment away from the public eye, they couldn't have been more successful, but this is what makes it brilliant. Tucked away down an alley and sat on top a separately run pub is one of London's finest Italian secrets.


The decor is typically Sardinian and at times, you really do expect an old Italian woman to come out and shout at her employees! What you come here for is the food and the service. Letting the decor standards slip in comparison to that of the food and the service in a restaurant can sometimes be suicide but if the food's that good, you can get away with it.

The 35-bin list of Italian wines may be small, but it reflects the remarkable diversity of the country’s wine production very effectively. There are rich wines from Sicily & fragrant classics from the north, with every area in-between getting a look-in. It's one of the most comprehensively put together lists from a particular area I've seen.

Bread - the best place in London for crusty white/brown, olive oil and balsamic vinegar
Staff - family run, efficient and very hospitable
Overall - if you can find the place, you're in for a winner
020 7792 9033