Wednesday 31 March 2010

Pastis, 9th Ave, New York

Chez Bruce, 2 Bellevue Road, London

Hailed as the pride of South London by many, Bruce Poole’s Wandsworth gaff is reliably packed every lunch and evening according to the staff that work there. Restaurant employees are trained to say that but with this place you can see they're probably telling the truth.

The place was more of a ‘pleasantly noisy’ bistro than a Michelin Starred dining room. Poole’s cooking is exact and careful but not flashy, bringing together vivid colours and bold flavours from home and abroad that's great to see done with such expertise. At busy times throughout the evening, you could almost feel the staff feeling the pressure of it all, but as a sign of a good team all continued to act smart, helpful and intelligent.


The fixed-price formula keeps a lid on the bill, although the utterly brilliant wine list can shatter the most prudent intentions. A visit is a must if you're in London and can spare sixty quid per head.

020 8672 0114

Saturday 14 November 2009

Yauatcha, 15 Broadwick Street, London

Awarded a Michelin star in 2005 and retaining one ever since, Alan Yau now has two top draw restaurants in his portfolio in Hakkasan and Yauatcha.  Yauatcha delivers a stylish update to the oriental tea house serving classic and contemporary dim sum right throughout the day.


Located in the backwaters of Soho, Yauatcha isn't the easiest place to find, but there's no mistaking its sleek blue glass exterior once you arrive. From the outside, you're offered a tantalising glimpse of beautifully crafted single desserts laid out in orderly rows, already signalling a departure from the traditional dim sum experience.

Yauatcha's dim sum is edgy and original with a contemporary twist applied to old classics with some surprising results. Given the sophisticated surroundings, this is dim sum for the discerning diner. During the daytime, Yauatcha draws crowds of London's young trendy urbanites taking a break from the nearby Oxford Street shopping. Evening time gives way to small groups and couples it seems, revelling in the buzzy atmosphere. Make sure you book a table downstairs to make the most of the moody underground bar/club feeling.

Playing a classy riff on the traditional dim sum experience, Yauatcha lands firmly on the must-try list for those who enjoy high quality Chinese cuisine in an equally sophisticated setting.

0871 971 3443

Saturday 3 October 2009

Buen Arye, 50 Broadway Market, London

Broadway Market’s Argentinian steakhouse sticks to the formula that has kept it jam-packed from day one. Trying to snag a table without a reservation is close to pointless it seems, being sat close to the doorway a minimum of 15 walk-ins were turned away.

Its USP is meant to be its asado (barbecue), where Irish-Argentinian owner John Rattagan tends to the coals & the grass-fed, dictionary-thick, pampas-reared steaks. The parilladas (tabletop braziers) for two are carnivorous heaven, particularly the top end version loaded with good sized pieces of rib-eye, rump, provolone cheese, superlative black pudding and spicy Argentinian style sausages.



The whole operation is patriotic through and through, from the Maradona photo on the wall to the Quilmes beer. The wine list in particular is one to commend as a lot of meaty establishments still over cater for the white wine lovers of the world. At Buen Arye, it's clear to see that they see big, bold and bulky reds fit to be served alongside the dishes they produce.

Not everyone is in love with it, however. Complaints about ‘sloppy’, disinterested service, high prices (chips at £4.50), inconsistency & the single unisex toilet come through periodically.

020 7275 9900

Tuesday 25 August 2009

Great Queen Street, 32 Great Queen Street, London

If you need a good, quick, wholesome bite to eat then this is place for you. Like it's older brother The Anchor & Hope, the eatery prides itself on the hearty food that it offers. The kitchen pays proper attention to bringing the best out of prime ingredients. Try a textbook version of Arbroath smokie with cream & chives or a steak and kidney pie for two to share.

Simple menu descriptions and stripped-down, maroon-walled decor make it accessible to everyone and anyone who loves food. The wine list is not very extensive but it doesn't need to be, having the option of a carafe is something that a lot of the larger the restaurants now offer and works well for both the customer and the restaurant.


The service is young and personable, and there’s generally a very happy buzz about the place. The one thing that draws me to like this establishment is it's Sunday lunch session, where diners sit and are all served together.

Bread - just keeps coming - make sure to leave room for the main!
Staff - unfussy and down to earth
Overall - booking is recommended - it's better than it's sister restaurant (The Anchor & Hope, Waterloo)
020 7242 0622

Sunday 2 August 2009

Sketch, The Lecture Room, 9 Conduit St, London

It’s almost impossible to arrive at Sketch without some preconceptions - tales of £70 starters have run rife since Pierre Gagnaire’s London venture first opened its doors. These days the prices have come down to earth a little but this extraordinary venue continues to open up opinions.

Given its unique film set chic, the clientele who were dining with us were surprisingly formal; businessman and post work goers were all present. The service is slick, typically European and compliments the environment you’re in brilliantly.


The food is traditionally French and oozes Gagnaire’s style, but avoids the charge of being stuck in the past that can be leveled at many other by-the-book Gallic establishments. Familiar dishes are given a modern twist with hip, international ingredients; surprising flavours sit alongside simpler tastes (for example chocolate with fillet steak) and while it may not be to everyone’s taste, Sketch Gallery certainly puts your taste buds through their paces, and in thoroughly enjoyable fashion.

Neither as expensive nor as exclusive as some would have you believe, this is event -dining of the highest order. Get your boss on side, sweet-talk the in-laws or drop in for a special date: just go, just once and be proud London can boast somewhere this chic.

Bread – numerous types to choose from and stylishly served
Staff – professional and hold themselves well, good sommelier
Overall - inimitably cool, impeccably turned out and perfectly prepared
0872 261 0019

Umu, 14-16 Bruton Place, Mayfair, London

The highest form of kaiseki hails from the ancient capital of Japan, Kyoto, so I was very excited about Umu, the UK's first Kyoto-style restaurant. It was opened by the big spending Marc group that are clearly having fun trying to play restaurant monopoly.

After hearing stories of how the Japanese vegetables and wild fish are being flown from Japan, and that the chef insists on cooking with specially imported Japanese water because London water is too harsh, I had been expecting a meal of breathtaking perfection. Instead, my breath was taken away by yawning.


Umu is a very strange restaurant, in part luxurious and stimulating, and in part boring and somewhat difficult. The vast wine list seems inappropriate to the food served. Some of the staff were charming and helpful, others seemed almost out of their depth.

If Japanese cuisine is what you like though the restaurant is worth a visit but you cannot help but think that you’re spending money unwillingly when round the corner is The Square offering a lot more of an all round dining style.

Bread – nowhere to be seen
Staff – uncomfortable and act as if they haven’t been briefed properly
Overall – technically prepared cuisine served in nervy surroundings
020 7499 8881