Umu, 14-16 Bruton Place, Mayfair, London

The highest form of kaiseki hails from the ancient capital of Japan, Kyoto, so I was very excited about Umu, the UK's first Kyoto-style restaurant. It was opened by the big spending Marc group that are clearly having fun trying to play restaurant monopoly.

After hearing stories of how the Japanese vegetables and wild fish are being flown from Japan, and that the chef insists on cooking with specially imported Japanese water because London water is too harsh, I had been expecting a meal of breathtaking perfection. Instead, my breath was taken away by yawning.

Umu is a very strange restaurant, in part luxurious and stimulating, and in part boring and somewhat difficult. The vast wine list seems inappropriate to the food served. Some of the staff were charming and helpful, others seemed almost out of their depth.

If Japanese cuisine is what you like though the restaurant is worth a visit but you cannot help but think that you’re spending money unwillingly when round the corner is The Square offering a lot more of an all round dining style.

Bread – nowhere to be seen
Staff – uncomfortable and act as if they haven’t been briefed properly
Overall – technically prepared cuisine served in nervy surroundings
020 7499 8881