Saturday, 25 July 2009

Gramercy Tavern, 42 E. 20th Street, New York

With it's Pottery Barn-style decor, lively but unobtrusive atmosphere and immensely knowledgable front of house staff, Gramercy Tavern has to be one of Danny Meyer's archetypal eateries.

Judging from other people's opinions and experiences this restaurant doesn't seem to dissapoint on a regular basis. New York is blessed with a huge number of great restaurants and restaurateurs but this is the place where everyone talks about.


The chef, Michael Anthony seems to be conducting his very own show on the big-city stage with the right reasons in mind. The combination of simple produce cooked in straight forward, yet effective means results in a lavish and throughly enjoyable feast. Anthony is an expert in the delicate arts of poaching and braising. These two methods of cooking are well recognised current trends but what differentiates chefs that use these methods beyond practice is what produce they use.



The menu, filled with subtle, slightly rustic creations is unlike no other I've encountered. The one thing that's obvious is that Danny Meyer has instilled the importantance of staying with the American approach to cooking, the appointment of Anthony portrays that. There was nothing fancy about the food but it was presented in brilliant fashion. What you read from the menu is what you got but every dish felt like it had been thought about fanatically in terms of the balance of flavours, what aromas complemented others and what textures could be used to mostconfuse your senses (within reason of course).

The entire experience was pleasurable as the staff seemed to provide the service so effortlessly. You can see why New Yorkers continue to dine at this restaurant. Even though it holds a worldwide reputation, it somehow manages to keep it's local feel. If you visit the Big Apple, visit Gramercy Tavern.

Bread - numerous styles, served and explained brilliantly, enough said
Staff - brilliant
Overall - be sure to book in advance (Opentable is your best bet), is up there with The Statue of Liberty, Empire State Building and Brooklyn Bridge.
(212) 477-0777

Monday, 20 July 2009

Assaggi, 39 Chepstow Place, London

No restaurant frontage, no signs, no website and no brand identity. If the owners of Assaggi wanted to hide this establishment away from the public eye, they couldn't have been more successful, but this is what makes it brilliant. Tucked away down an alley and sat on top a separately run pub is one of London's finest Italian secrets.


The decor is typically Sardinian and at times, you really do expect an old Italian woman to come out and shout at her employees! What you come here for is the food and the service. Letting the decor standards slip in comparison to that of the food and the service in a restaurant can sometimes be suicide but if the food's that good, you can get away with it.

The 35-bin list of Italian wines may be small, but it reflects the remarkable diversity of the country’s wine production very effectively. There are rich wines from Sicily & fragrant classics from the north, with every area in-between getting a look-in. It's one of the most comprehensively put together lists from a particular area I've seen.

Bread - the best place in London for crusty white/brown, olive oil and balsamic vinegar
Staff - family run, efficient and very hospitable
Overall - if you can find the place, you're in for a winner
020 7792 9033

Sunday, 14 June 2009

Hakkasan, 8 Hanway Place, London

Hakkasan can be confident of its place among London’s elite restaurants. The kitchen has a Michelin star making the punters flock here for an exquisite ‘modern authentic’ Cantonese style of cuisine. As much about fashion as gastronomy, the glamorous subterranean dining room is imbued with a sultry vibe that’s enhanced by moody indigo lighting and is best suited to night time or lunch on dark winter days.


It is hard not to be enamoured by the sultry enclave of chinoiserie that is this underground restaurant, where sleek staff glide out of the shadows carrying all manner of elegantly presented modern Chinese fare.

Tuesday, 20 January 2009

La Trompette, 5-7 Devonshire Rd, Chiswick

All you have to do nowadays is to know what the London dining public want, then give it to them and charge shedloads of money. La Trompette have clearly figured out what the affluent Chiswick crowd out but have forgotten to charge the shedload of cash?



Little has changed at La Trompette since it opened: something worth celebrating when so much here is so right. The food is the big draw. A starter of quail stuffed with ham and mushrooms, inside a glazed pastry case, was a humbling delight on a sweet and sticky Madeira sauce; large ravioli, plump with crab and scallop, were light and fresh. A duck breast and richer leg confit with foie gras were balanced with grilled chicory and sharp tasting cherries. The menu is priced so that three courses are only slightly more expensive than two, which makes the puddings seem a bargain. There's a notably strong wine list too with a the most helpful of sommeliers to guide you.

Sunday, 18 January 2009

The Spotted Pig, 314 W. 11th Street, New York

Being a gastro-pub, The Spotted Pig strives to serve simple yet upscale food. This upscale food though is perhaps some of the best in New York.

Whoever adds Roquefort to a burger and serves shoestring chips alongside is gonna make the headlines - especially if it's actually a good one - and in my opinion it's a fantastic dish.

The Spotted Pig is an oddity of a restaurant featuring a deliberately distressed look: three small floors, totally vertical. It’s dark, cramped, and has stools instead of chairs which, allows for a little more flexibility when customers have to fill the gaps during busy times. The vibe that gives out the impression of being a warm, comfortable establishment works and is backed up with the British comfort food and well thought of wine list.



I had one of my most memorable meals here when I visited New York and after some research have just found out that April Bloomfield, the Chef, has created a new restaurant called The John Dory!



Bread - Went extremely well with the beer - hearty!
Staff - All you needed was at hand at this gastropub.
Overall - You have to visit it if your in NY.
(212) 620-0393

Hereford Road, 3 Hereford Road, London

If this restaurant is not already earning itself a place in London’s culinary arsenal then I'll go and eat at fast food joints from now on. The restaurant’s chef, Tom Pemberton, former head chef at St John Bread and Wine, has a fantastic, unequivocal approach to cooking: keep it simple. Brilliantly simple.

Having eaten there three times now it's a pleasure to see almost completely different menus everytime within the period of no longer than a month. This is a restaurant suited for adventurous eaters that offers British delights. My girlfriend had calves liver with mash, sage and bacon and I can honestly say that it was the best calves liver I've had since visiting The Spotted Pig in New York this time last year.


The restaurant itself is minimalism meets Manhattan featuring red-leather booths for parties and intimate tables for two overlooking the animated open plan kitchen.

It's a great little neighbourhood eatery but it does resemble St John's style. Who can blame Tom Pemberton for replicating what he has learnt and transferring it into his own concept - it's going to be successful so all the best to him!

Bread - Winter warming, brown with good butter.
Staff - Eager to please, simple but effective style of service.
Overall - If you live in or around Notting Hill Gate make it your local.
020 7727 1144

Saturday, 17 January 2009

Michelin - The Star

At the time of writing, Michelin are preparing themselves to experience a sudden demand for their guide books. The Great Britain and Ireland Michelin Guide 2009 will be the most up to date and comprehensive source of reliable information when it comes to reviewing restaurants.

Inspectors make regular and anonymous visits to restaurants chosen entirely of their own accord throughout the year to gauge the quality of products and services offered to an ordinary customer. They will settle their own bill and ask for more information about the establishment but do not necessarily have to disclose their presence.

All of the restaurants that consider themselves to be near of meeting the standards required to meet the inspector's rigourous methods of reviewing are after one thing only -



The Star.